The Empire Pool / Wembley Arena Story – Part 1

 Guest post, by local historian Philip Grant. Look out for Part 2 on Saturday July 27th.

 

1.     The Empire Pool in 1934.
(Source: Brent Archives – Wembley History Society Collection)

 

I’ve been writing and speaking about the British Empire Exhibition (“BEE”) in this, its centenary year, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the Empire Pool (now better known as Wembley Arena) was built for that event. But it was actually constructed ten years later, and 25 July 2024 is the 90^th anniversary of its opening. Why and how it was built, and the variety of events that have taken place there since it opened, are a story that deserves to be told. That is what I aim to do in this short series of articles.

 

2.     Arthur Elvin. (Image from the internet)

 

Arthur Elvin had already earned his place in Wembley’s history by buying, and saving from demolition, the former Exhibition’s Empire Stadium. By 1929, as Chairman and Managing Director of the Wembley Stadium and Greyhound Racecourse Company Ltd, he was welcoming large crowds to the stadium to watch regular greyhound racing and motorcycle speedway meetings, as well as hosting the annual F.A. Cup and Rugby League Challenge Cup finals. The company had also acquired much of the former Exhibition site.

 

Elvin wanted to expand Wembley’s sporting attractions, and by 1932 was planning to use part of that land for an indoor sports stadium. In order to pay for itself, this facility would need year-round use, which would also help to provide full-time employment for the company’s 400 staff. One of his team suggested that he should go and see a new sport for this country, introduced from Canada. Having watched an England v Canada ice hockey match, Elvin was determined that Wembley would have its own team, skating on its own rink. 

 

3.     The site chosen for the indoor stadium, marked on a 1924 BEE plan.

 

The ambitious plans for the new building included a large swimming pool, which could be floored over for indoor sports, including an ice rink during the winter months. The designer chosen for the project was Sir Owen Williams, the expert on reinforced concrete who had been behind the construction of the Stadium and Palaces of Industry and Engineering for the 1924 Exhibition. Concrete provided both speed of construction, and the ability to span a building that would be 240 feet wide, without supporting pillars.

 

4.     An article by Sir Owen Williams from the 1925 booklet “Wembley: The First City of Concrete”.
(Source: Brent Archives)

 

The company had no trouble raising the £170,000 it needed to finance the project, and work got underway in November 1933. Even though Sir Owen’s plans took advantage of the western end of the BEE’s lake, they still needed to dig out 30,000 tons of clay, before they could actually start constructing the building. It was 15 February 1934 before Lord Derby could “lay the foundation stone” – but because of the building’s design, it had to be cast with liquid concrete!

 

 

 

 5. Lord Derby “laying the foundation stone”, 15 February 1934. (From an old book)

 

6.     The Empire Pool under construction in 1934. (From an old book)

 

Soon there were 800 men working on the site, erecting a mass of scaffolding and the formwork, in which to pour 20,000 tons of concrete. The design of the beams across the roof of the building enabled the weight of the roof to be balanced out by heavier sections beyond the side walls, with vertical columns holding the ends in place. In between the beams was space for 56,000 square feet (5,200 square metres) of glass, which along with huge windows at the end of the building allowed the pool to be lit by natural light during the day.

 

The pool itself was 200 feet (61 metres) long and 85 feet (26 metres) wide, with a maximum depth, at the diving board end, of 16½ feet (5 metres). When finished, it needed 700,000 gallons of water to fill the pool, which was pumped direct from the Colne Valley over the space of ten days, then passed through the pools own filtration and purification system. Incredibly, the whole building and its facilities were ready to be opened by July 1934.

 

7.     Arthur Elvin (right) and Sir Owen Williams (centre) taking the Duke of Gloucester (tall man!) on a tour of the building on 25 July 1934. (From an old book)

 

The official opening was carried by the Duke of Gloucester (the third son of King George V and Queen Mary) on 25 July 1934. The building was named the Empire Pool and Sports Arena, at least partly because the swimming events for the 1934 British Empire Games were about to be held there, between 4 and 10 August, although there was just time before that for an opening event to test the facilities. 

 

8.     Leaflet publicising the Pool’s Opening Meeting, 27 July 1934. (Courtesy of Geoff Lane)

 

The Games had first been held in Hamilton, Ontario, in 1930. The British Empire Exhibition at Wembley in 1924 had brought people from over 50 nations together, ‘to meet on common ground and learn to know each other’. A Canadian journalist, covering the 1928 Olympic Games in Amsterdam, had the idea that a similar event for people from across the Empire, again at four-year intervals, would help to further that aim through sport. He helped to organise the first British Empire Games in his home city, when 11 nations sent competitors.

 

The second edition of the British Empire Games in 1934 was originally planned to take place in Johannesburg, but some countries protested that their competitors would be excluded because of South Africa’s apartheid policies. London stepped in, hosting 16 nations, with the athletics events staged at the White City Stadium (where the 1908 Olympic Games had been held). Wembley’s brand-new Empire Pool, with seating for 5,000 spectators, and a wooden pontoon across the shallow end to create the correct length of 55 yards (50 metres), was ideal for the aquatic competitions.

 

9.     Advert for public swimming at the Empire Pool (from the back cover of a 1934 Games programme). (Courtesy of Geoff Lane)

 

 

10.  Public swimming at the Empire Pool, 1930s. (From an old book)

 

The Empire Pool was up and running, with public swimming proving very popular for the rest of the summer, but come the autumn it was time for a change. It took twelve days to drain the pool, install a scaffolding structure to fill the void and a thick wooden flooring over it to create an indoor sports arena, ready for Elvin’s ice hockey team, given the same name as the Stadium’s speedway team, the Wembley Lions.

 

11.  The Wembley Lions ice hockey team, 1930s. (Courtesy of Geoff Lane)

 

In fact, from October 1934 the Empire Pool had two national ice hockey league teams, playing matches on Thursdays and Saturdays. The rink where the Grosvenor House Canadians used to play had just closed, so they became the Wembley Canadians, with their name soon changing to the Wembley Monarchs. And when the ice rink was not being used for hockey matches or practice, it was available for skating, with 600,000 payments for public use of the ice during the first winter alone!

 

12.  A public skating session at the Empire Pool, 1930s. (From an old book)

 

Swimming and ice hockey/skating were far from the only sports that the Empire Pool and Arena catered for, and I will share more of these with you in the next part of its story. I hope you will join me again for that.

 

Philip Grant.

 

Part 2 will be published on Saturday July 27th 2024.

The Wembley Park Story - Part 4

The fourth part of Philip Grant's series on the history of Wembley Park

We left Part 3 (“click” if you missed it) just after the British Empire Exhibition had closed in 1925. Its site and the buildings on it had cost around £12m (equivalent to over £700m now), but the Liquidator’s attempt to sell them at auction as a single lot was withdrawn, with the highest offer at £350k. It was later bought for just £300k by Jimmy White, a speculator who paid 10% of this “up front”, with the balance payable as the buildings were sold off.

Many of the people who worked at the exhibition had been unemployed ex-servicemen. Arthur Elvin was one of these, working in a cigarette kiosk in 1924. He saved as much of his £4 10s wages as he could, and leased eight kiosks himself when the exhibition reopened in 1925, selling sweets and souvenirs as well. He bought and demolished his first small building on the site in 1926, selling the metal for scrap and rubble as hardcore for road construction. After reinvesting the profits several times, within a year he offered £122,500 for the stadium.

1. Wembley Stadium, after demolition of the BEE pavilions, c.1927. (Image from the internet)

Elvin had paid £12,500 deposit to White, with the balance payable over ten years, when in August 1927 the Official Receiver demanded it all within a fortnight! Jimmy White had only ever paid the initial £30k for the buildings, gambled away the rest, and then shot himself. By working together with friends and banks, Elvin managed to complete the purchase. Aged 28, he was the managing director of the Wembley Stadium and Greyhound Racecourse Company Ltd.

2. Greyhound and speedway racing events at Wembley Stadium. (Images from old books on the stadium)

Few had thought the stadium could be saved from demolition, with the Cup Final as its only annual booking. The company name is a clue to how Elvin believed it could be made profitable. He introduced greyhound racing, three times a week, from 1928, and motorcycle speedway, with his Wembley Lions team, from 1929, both with regular crowds in excess of 60,000. The pre-match entertainment he put on for the football final, including community singing (“Abide with me”), attracted the Rugby League cup final in 1929, with Wembley as its home ever since.

With greyhounds the only winter attraction, Elvin saw another possibility to keep Wembley’s 400 employees in full-time work during the early 1930s depression, after watching an ice hockey game at Earls Court in 1932. His plans crystalized when the second British Empire Games were planned for London in 1934. Working with Sir Owen Williams, who had designed the stadium, the Empire Pool was constructed of reinforced concrete in just nine months.

3. L-R, Duke of Gloucester, Sir Owen Williams and Arthur Elvin at the Pool opening. (From an old book)

The Pool was opened on 25 July 1934, just in time for the swimming and diving events of the Games. The boxing and wrestling competitions followed, in a ring on a bridge across the pool. Then the public could enjoy the pool for swimming throughout the summer. As soon as the speedway season finished in October, its fans could support a new Wembley Lions ice hockey team. The pool was drained for the winter, and the rink on a floor above it could be used for public skating, when the Lions or a second team, the Wembley Monarchs, were not playing.

4. A 1934 Empire Pool advert, and swimmers enjoying it. (From a Pool programme, and an old book) 

5. Ice hockey programme, and a match at the Empire Pool, both late 1930s. (From old programme and book)

While Arthur Elvin was making Wembley Park a major sporting venue, the exhibition buildings that had not been demolished were put to new uses. The former Lucullus Restaurant, alongside Wembley Park Drive, became a film studio. The huge Palaces of Industry and Engineering were split up into units for manufacturing or warehouses. Elvin used the Palace of Arts as storage space, for the platform which supported the ice rink, and the banked timber track used for cycling races inside the Empire Pool, but it was soon to be required for another purpose.

In the late 1930s, Germany under Adolf Hitler aimed to become a dominant force. The Empire Pool hosted the European Swimming Championships in 1938, and Germany easily topped the medal table. After war broke out the following year, Wembley Council took over the Palace of Arts as the centre for its A.R.P. organisation. When thousands of British troops were evacuated from Dunkirk in May 1940, many were brought to the stadium, which was used as an emergency dispersal centre. Refugees from France, Belgium and Holland followed, and were given temporary accommodation in the Empire Pool, before being rehomed across the country. 

6. A Civil Defence review at Wembley Stadium, October 1942. (Image from Brent Archives)

Wartime parades and reviews made use of the stadium, and other events, including greyhound racing, continued throughout the war. Service men and women could attend free. There were many charity matches, like an England v. Scotland football international in February 1944, with King George VI, Princess Elizabeth and Field Marshall Montgomery in the Royal Box, which raised a record £18,000. Others were inter-service games, including baseball and American Football between teams from the U.S. ground and air forces in 1943/44, ahead of D-Day. 

7. A U.S. Services baseball game at Wembley Stadium in 1943. (Still image from a newsreel film)

The stadium was used as a landmark by the Luftwaffe, on their way to raids north of London, but Wembley Park was also a target. A German airman, whose bomber was shot down locally, had a map marking the location of an R.A.F. storage depot (the former Palace of Industry!). Bombs hit the stadium on three occasions, and a V1 “doodlebug” landed on the kennels, killing a number of greyhounds, in 1944. Each Christmas, during the war, Mr and Mrs Elvin and their stadium team provided a free Christmas dinner for hundreds of local service personnel who could not get home. In 1945, Elvin was awarded the M.B.E. for his wartime efforts.

There had been no Olympic Games in 1940 or 1944, and when London was invited to stage the 1948 Olympiad, the Government almost declined the offer because of post-war austerity. Then, at the start of 1947, Elvin offered his facilities at Wembley Park, free of charge, so the Games could go ahead. The Stadium company also agreed to build a new access road from the station. Until early 1948, about one third of the labour on this project was provided by German prisoners of war. The new road, named Olympic Way, cost £120k and opened in July.

8. German P-o-W’s at work on Olympic Way in 1947. (Still image from a film made at the time)

9. Wembley Town Hall, in Forty Lane, decorated for the Olympics in July 1948. (Brent Archives image 3829)

The Borough of Wembley really got behind the Games. Many residents took paying guests into their homes, as there were few hotels for spectators to stay at. Entertainments for visitors were arranged by the Council. A school in Alperton was one of those used to house male competitors, and the families of several pupils played host to some of their female team mates.

10. The Olympic Games opening ceremony at Wembley Stadium. (Brent Archives, 1948 Olympics Report)

On 29 July 1948, packed crowds watched the opening ceremony. Boy Scouts from Wembley carried the names of the 59 countries taking part, in front of their teams in the parade. Thousands of residents lined the streets, as a relay of local runners carried the Olympic torch on its way to the stadium, ready to light the flame that marked the start of the Games.

11. Olympic Way, with crowds going to the stadium for the Games, July 1948. (Image from the internet)

For over two weeks, Wembley Park and its new Olympic Way were full of visitors to this great sporting occasion, and they were not disappointed. New heroes emerged, like Emil Zatopek of Czechoslovakia, who won gold in the 10,000 metres and finished second in the 5,000m by just 0.4 of a second, and Arthur Wint, winning Jamaica’s first ever Olympic gold medal in the 400m, after silver in the 800m. Housewife and mother, Fanny Blankers-Koen of The Netherlands was the heroine of the Games, winning four athletics golds.

 
The Olympic Games (1948) – BFI / National Archives

Elvin, now Sir Arthur, must have enjoyed the event that made “his” venue the centre of the sporting world. As well as the opening and closing ceremonies, the stadium hosted the athletics events, football and hockey finals and the show jumping competition. The Empire Pool staged the swimming and diving, the water polo final, and then, after bridging the pool again, the boxing bouts. Part of the Palace of Engineering was used for the fencing competitions, and the Palace of Arts was taken over by the BBC, to become the Broadcasting Centre for the Games.

Could Wembley Park ever match the “high” of the 1948 Olympic Games again, or would it simply be forgotten as the years moved on? There will be more of its story to discover next weekend, and I look forward to sharing it with you.

Please use the comments section below if you have any questions from the series so far, or if you have information on Wembley Park that you would like to share, with me and others.

Philip Grant.

Deadline 24 February – your only chance to see the tile murals in 2020!

 

Guest blog by Philip Grant in a personal capacity:

I wrote last month about the “reveal” by Brent Council and Quintain of three of the Bobby Moore Bridge tile mural scenes in Olympic Way, as part of Brent’s London Borough of Culture 2020 celebrations. LINK

On 2 February, Martin added a comment he had received via email to that blog. The points which Elisabeth had made echoed what I and many other local people feel, and prompted me to write a joint email to the Cultural Director of Quintain’s Wembley Park Arts organisation and Brent’s Chief Executive (full text as a comment on the previous blog). My email finished with:

‘I hope that Quintain / Wembley Park and Brent Council will reconsider plans to put adverts over the revealed tile mural scenes again after 24 February. Please leave them uncovered for at least the remainder of 2020, or if that is not considered possible, please announce future dates during LBOC 2020 when these tile murals will be on public display again.’

I have now received a reply (from Wembley Park, but not from Brent). While it says that ‘Quintain and Brent Council have an agreement to reveal the south eastern tiles for a specific amount of time each year,’ it goes on to say:

‘… this year the tiles are being unveiled for 38 days in January and February to ensure residents and visitors have the opportunity to view the installation.’

I asked whether this meant that there would be no further display of these mural scenes during 2020, and the answer was “Yes” it did. So, 38 days out of 366 (yes, it’s a leap year) in LBOC 2020 in which to see this part of Brent’s cultural heritage. If you don’t see them by Monday 24 February, there won’t be another chance this year.

It appeared that being the London Borough of Culture had made Brent Council and Quintain finally acknowledge the cultural and heritage importance of these tile murals. I had been encouraged by statements made on behalf of both organisations when the Mayor of Brent conducted the “reveal” on 18 January, as a prelude to the LBOC 2020 “RISE” event later that day. 

All smiles from Brent Council and Quintain at the tile murals “reveal” on 18 January.
(Photo by Francis Waddington, Wembley History Society)

At the reveal event Julian Tollast, on behalf of Quintain, said:

‘The iconic cultural and sporting events at Wembley are celebrated in these heritage tiles behind us, and we are really proud to work with Brent and with Wembley History Society to make the reveal on a periodic basis of these murals possible.'

Brent Council’s press release about the reveal of ‘the heritage tiles at Wembley Park’s Bobby Moore Bridge’ said:

‘The tiles, which show scenes from famous sports and entertainment events at Wembley Stadium and the SSE Arena, Wembley, are part of Brent’s rich heritage and date back to September 1993 when they were originally dedicated to the legendary footballer.’ 

It is now clear that their enthusiasm for Brent’s rich heritage is subject to the proviso that it ‘does not restrict commercial opportunities that benefit both parties.’ 

It appears that these “commercial opportunities” may also extend to the occasional covering up of the “footballers” mural in the subway. That mural scene was put back on “permanent” public display in the autumn of 2019, following the approval of Quintain’s planning applications LINK as a gesture towards the heritage significance of the murals. Quintain’s application had promised that:

‘a 9.4m long section of the original tiled mural located on the east wall and referencing England footballers and the Wembley ‘twin towers’ will remain uncovered and visible to the general public.’

The reply I received from Wembley Park included the statement: ‘Quintain has committed to make this scene visible at all times with the exception of a small number of stadium event days.’ When I asked for clarification, the response was:

‘ These tiles may be covered up for events held at Wembley Stadium, such as the NFL games, UEFA events and concerts. As of today, there aren’t plans to cover them up until potentially the NFL games in late October.’

It seems that Quintain and Brent Council would be prepared to cover up this iconic England footballers mural, even during England’s Euro 2020 matches at Wembley Stadium, if “the price is right”. For the NFL games at the stadium this autumn, they would be willing to cover up the “soccer” mural, but not put back on display the American Footballers scene!

I will give the final words on this situation to a lady who emailed me this week, in response to my recent blog on the Bobby Moore Bridge tile murals. She has lived in Wembley for more than sixty years, and with her late husband had been to many events at the Stadium and Arena, including the Wembley Lions last ice hockey match in 1968:

‘As Brent is supposed to be the London Borough of Culture, I am appalled that our sporting heritage murals are to be covered by advertisements.’ 

Philip Grant

Where was “The Beggars Roost”? – a Wembley mystery

Many thanks to Philip Grant for this fascinating guest blog. My late older brother, David, had a lifelong passion for motorbikes that probably started with the 'Wembley Lions.

 

You were probably living in Wembley during the Second World War, more than seventy years ago, or have talked to someone who was, if you can answer this question. But even if neither applies to you, you may still be interested to know why I am asking.

I deal with email local history enquiries on behalf of Wembley History Society, and they sometimes set some fascinating puzzles. One arrived recently from a lady in the United States. She was looking around a Goodwill store (charity shop), and saw a very attractive coat of arms, hand-painted on a wooden plaque. She bought it, took it home, and then began to wonder what it was, and the story behind it.

The name “Wembley” was almost certainly a place, and she found out that the letters “ARP” stood for Air Raid Precautions, in Britain during the Second World War. By searching online, she discovered that there was someone she could contact who might know more about the history of Wembley at that time, so she sent me a photo of her plaque.

A.R.P. Post 12 Plaque, from Cheryl Hutton

 I have no doubt that this home-made coat of arms came from “our” Wembley, as the lion in the top right quarter is copied from the badge of the “Wembley Lions” motorcycle speedway team. They were based at Wembley Stadium, and were hugely popular during the 1930’s, when they were national champions several times. 
 

The blue and yellow quarter below it shows an air raid warden’s helmet, gas mask and rattle, so there can be little doubt that the plaque was first made for, and probably displayed at, ARP Post 12, in Sector 8 / 9 of the Borough of Wembley. But where was this, and why did the wardens call their base ‘the Beggars Roost”? Is the chicken (or “rooster”) a clue, and who is the beggar above it on the plaque? I don’t know, and would certainly welcome any information that readers, or anyone they can forward this article to who might be able to help, could provide.

Eighty years ago the Borough of Wembley was a separate local government area, with a population of just over 100,000 people. Even before the war, the local Council was making A.R.P plans, and starting to build public air raid shelters, in response to the threat from Germany. After war broke out, a full-scale air raid wardens service was mobilised, which at its height had 2,500 wardens, 95% of them unpaid volunteers. 

I know, from an elderly neighbour (the son of a warden), that the A.R.P. post for our 1930's-built estate was in the requisitioned garage of a local bungalow. His father was one of the first on the scene when a German "parachute mine" hit a row of shops in Kingsbury Road one night in September 1940, killing two mothers, a baby boy and a seven year old girl, in the flats above. This is an official "war damage" photo of the scene, taken the following day, which shows the sort of event that the wardens had to deal with (thankfully, not too often!).

Bombed shops and flats in Kingsbury Road, 1940

As well as the A.R.P. wardens, first aid and rescue teams were also organised. After the bombing raids started in earnest, in August 1940, nearly all civilians had to undertake "fire watching" duties (around 7,500 of the c. 9,000 bombs which fell in the Wembley area between 1940 and 1945 were incendiaries), so around 25,000 Wembley people in total were engaged in some form of Civil Defence work during the war. The Borough lost 149 civilians killed in air raids, including several A.R.P. wardens, with over 400 more seriously injured.

The “Beggars Roost” plaque, which somehow found its way to the U.S.A. after the war, is a reminder that the bombing of civilians, horrible as it is, is not just something that happens in far-away places like Syria or Yemen. It happened in Wembley as well, and the volunteer men and women of A.R.P. Post 12, and others like it, did their best to protect their neighbours from such atrocities. I hope that, perhaps with your help, I can find out more about them.

Philip Grant.